Lying in my bed in this hill town two hours southeast of Kathmandu, I wake each morning to ritual. Around 5:30 a.m., birdsong rises from the nearby forest. An hour later comes bell ringing and the long, plaintive note of a conch shell. Incense drifts, faintly, through my window from the small Hindu temple where Shiva, the guesthouse chef and the temple’s namesake, performs his daily prayers. Hindu and Buddhist practitioners have performed similar rites for hundreds of years in this polytheistic Himalayan nation.
Jun 30, 2026 9:25 AM CDT